TY  - BOOK
AU  - Holthuijsen,Leo H.
TI  - Waves in oceanic and coastal waters
SN  - 9780511618536 (ebook)
AV  - QA927 .H66 2007
U1  - 551.4630151 22
PY  - 2007///
CY  - Cambridge
PB  - Cambridge University Press
KW  - Water waves
KW  - Mathematical models
KW  - Ocean waves
N1  - Title from publisher's bibliographic system (viewed on 05 Oct 2015); 1; Introducion --; 2; Observation techniques --; 3; Description of ocean waves --; 4; Statistics --; 5; Linear wave theory (oceanic waters) --; 6; Waves in oceanic waters --; 7; Linear wave theory (coastal waters) --; 8; Waves in coastal waters --; 9; The SWAN wave model --; App. A; Random variables --; App. B; Linear wave theory --; App. C; Spectral analysis --; App. D; Tides and currents --; App. E; Shallow-water equations
N2  - Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters describes the observation, analysis and prediction of wind-generated waves in the open ocean, in shelf seas, and in coastal regions with islands, channels, tidal flats and inlets, estuaries, fjords and lagoons. Most of this richly illustrated book is devoted to the physical aspects of waves. After introducing observation techniques for waves, both at sea and from space, the book defines the parameters that characterise waves. Using basic statistical and physical concepts, the author discusses the prediction of waves in oceanic and coastal waters, first in terms of generalised observations, and then in terms of the more theoretical framework of the spectral energy balance. He gives the results of established theories and also the direction in which research is developing. The book ends with a description of SWAN (Simulating Waves Nearshore), the preferred computer model of the engineering community for predicting waves in coastal waters
UR  - https://doi.org/10.1017/CBO9780511618536
ER  -