000			02658nam a22003618i 4500
001			CR9780511618536
003			UkCbUP
005			20200124160246.0
006			m|||||o||d||||||||
007			cr||||||||||||
008			141103s2007||||enk o ||1 0|eng|d
020			_a9780511618536 (ebook)
020			_z9780521860284 (hardback)
020			_z9780521129954 (paperback)
040			_aUkCbUP _beng _erda _cUkCbUP
050	0	0	_aQA927 _b.H66 2007
082	0	0	_a551.4630151 _222
100	1		_aHolthuijsen, Leo H., _eauthor.
245	1	0	_aWaves in oceanic and coastal waters / _cLeo H. Holthuijsen.
246	3		_aWaves in Oceanic & Coastal Waters
264		1	_aCambridge : _bCambridge University Press, _c2007.
300			_a1 online resource (xvi, 387 pages) : _bdigital, PDF file(s).
336			_atext _btxt _2rdacontent
337			_acomputer _bc _2rdamedia
338			_aonline resource _bcr _2rdacarrier
500			_aTitle from publisher's bibliographic system (viewed on 05 Oct 2015).
505	0	0	_g1. _tIntroducion -- _g2. _tObservation techniques -- _g3. _tDescription of ocean waves -- _g4. _tStatistics -- _g5. _tLinear wave theory (oceanic waters) -- _g6. _tWaves in oceanic waters -- _g7. _tLinear wave theory (coastal waters) -- _g8. _tWaves in coastal waters -- _g9. _tThe SWAN wave model -- _gApp. A. _tRandom variables -- _gApp. B. _tLinear wave theory -- _gApp. C. _tSpectral analysis -- _gApp. D. _tTides and currents -- _gApp. E. _tShallow-water equations.
520			_aWaves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters describes the observation, analysis and prediction of wind-generated waves in the open ocean, in shelf seas, and in coastal regions with islands, channels, tidal flats and inlets, estuaries, fjords and lagoons. Most of this richly illustrated book is devoted to the physical aspects of waves. After introducing observation techniques for waves, both at sea and from space, the book defines the parameters that characterise waves. Using basic statistical and physical concepts, the author discusses the prediction of waves in oceanic and coastal waters, first in terms of generalised observations, and then in terms of the more theoretical framework of the spectral energy balance. He gives the results of established theories and also the direction in which research is developing. The book ends with a description of SWAN (Simulating Waves Nearshore), the preferred computer model of the engineering community for predicting waves in coastal waters.
650		0	_aWater waves _xMathematical models.
650		0	_aOcean waves _xMathematical models.
776	0	8	_iPrint version: _z9780521860284
856	4	0	_uhttps://doi.org/10.1017/CBO9780511618536
999			_c518961 _d518959